"Speed Shifting"

[m in sc]

have to go into N on my t500 or the oil pump and tach dont work. yes, im serious.

[IR8D8R]

I have a quickshifter on my XSR 900. It is the Yamaha factory model and upshift only. It is basically a switch that mounts on the shift linkage rod that momentarily interrupts the ignition signal when you operate the shifter. There are quite a few aftermarket versions out there. I see no reason why one couldn't be fitted to a vintage bike unless it is necessary to cut fuel too. Some of them have their own control modules but the factory version plugs directly into the harness and are controlled by the ECU.

The autoblipper up/downshift versions might not work. Those may depend on fly-by-wire electronic throttles. It is probably easier to install on an electronic ignition than with points. At certain speed/rpm it feels as seamless as an automatic transmission. People more knowledgeable than I may know reasons these won't work on an RD. RPM matching works well on my 350 and I have no problems shifting without the clutch.

IR8D8R 

[jradnich]

Have you given any thought on changing your bars to something that puts less pressure on your thumb and more to the heel of your hand? Might not look the best on a RD, but maybe "cruiser" style bars might help. Of course that won't be too practical if you're bike is a cafe bike.

[pidjones]

Have you given any thought on changing your bars to something that puts less pressure on your thumb and more to the heel of your hand? Might not look the best on a RD, but maybe "cruiser" style bars might help. Of course that won't be too practical if you're bike is a cafe bike.

Pressure on the joint isn't the issue. It is passing through angles that are sensitive.  One of the worst is pressing thumb and forefinger together (luckily not needed when clutching). Cleaning my contacts had to be switched to my right hand. That little bit of pressure is aweful. Clutching pinches my hand bad between the brace and handgrip, as well as moves the joint through a painful angle. I'm investigating surgery because it is regressing and NSAIDs aren't helping much anymore. Happily, riding the Spyder causes no issues with it, even though thumb-shifted.

Oh, and three guitars have been unplayed for a decade.

[Striker1423]

have to go into N on my t500 or the oil pump and tach dont work. yes, im serious.

Leave it Suzuki to throw everyone through a loop. Pretty crazy when you think about it! Good to know though... Do the GT750's require the same? Reason I'm asking is.... well that'll be my next bike when and if I ever can get one.

[Old Brit]

Vintage bikes I use the clutch, modern bikes no clutch up and down the box.

[teazer]

Vintage bikes I use the clutch, modern bikes no clutch up and down the box.

Not on a GT750.  Tacho and water pump are from a gear on the crank to a train of gears and then a cross shaft to the water pump.  No clutch involved.  As long as the motor turns, so do all the rotating bits.

You looking for a GT750 cafe racer/restomod project?  I happen to have one with TL1000 suspension and wheels and a GusKhun tank and seat.  Choice of Bassani or J&R Power pipes.  I just started on it, so lots of room for personal touches 

[pidjones]

Resurrecting my old thread to add a recent development. Last Tuesday I was at a light in the left lane (turning left at the next light) on my GL1000 (GoldWing). The light had been red and traffic stopped for a bit. The station wagon behind me had stopped. Suddenly the bike lurched, and I thought the clutch had slipped in my hand and I had stalled it. But no, the station wagon had bumped me! Not very hard, but enough to crumple my license tag up under the fender.

I always leave a half to a full car-length in front - used that once to pull around a truck on my GL1000 as I heard squealing tires and a car slid to within a couple feet of the truck.

We got each other's info and went on our way. Police are too busy these days to respond, and the only cost (other than severely rattled nerves) to me will be a new tag - which she will pay for. Now, if I had been out of gear it would probably have put the bike on the pavement. A serious thing for my cherished Hunley. Maybe a one-in-a-hundred thing that I wasn't put down by it (since I was standing in my normal stoplight stance of one foot on the ground, the other on the rear brake). So, I'll continue sitting in-gear (and in fear) at lights. Holding the clutch doesn't hurt. It is the motion I have to go through from clutch released to held and back that causes the pain.

[85RZwade]

Perhaps an auto clutch like the Rekluse is an option. I doubt that there is a unit ready-made for what you're riding, but maybe something could be adapted?

[pidjones]

Perhaps an auto clutch like the Rekluse is an option. I doubt that there is a unit ready-made for what you're riding, but maybe something could be adapted?

Or just gently speed shift.

[soonerbillz]

have to go into N on my t500 or the oil pump and tach dont work. yes, im serious.

My YDS3 both require the bike to be in neutral and clutch released when sitting. The oil pump is clutch driven. Sitting in gear with the clutch pulled in..motor can seize from no oil delivery.
I've speed shifted all my bikes after learning where the bikes motor "lives" so to speak. Maybe not the smarter thing though.
I hope all works out for you .

[m in sc]

It is the motion I have to go through from clutch released to held and back that causes the pain.

have you tried rolling the clutch lever down as much as you can so you aren't stressing your forearm and hand muscles? most of mine are pointed, literally, 30-40 degrees 'down' in rotation.

[tony27]

Forgive me for asking... But what's the reason for neutral at lights on these old bikes? Clutch wear?

Oil pumps driven off the gearbox, sitting in gear with the clutch in means no oil is being pumped