3 phase cb360 street legal battery delete restomod

[bracket maker]

                   
   

this is what iv'e been up to. the project is finished. these pics taken at idle and the bike has no battery. I rewired in a modern way. I used the 3 phase sql40a rectifier. it allows for full current output at idle. the thing is stupid fun to ride. put db killer baffles in the pipes. they are the shit for 4t's the turn signals work perfectly. ice cube relays switch between modes. the turn signals are integrated front and rear.

anybody can do this on any honda twin even old ones like the '68 cb77e 305 superhawk, with plug and play parts. keep the stock harness. the rewire happens at the rectifier.

mark likes to keep it stock, so do I to a point. I skeve mechanical regulators like they are roaches. besides the led's I've done my best to make this bike look period correct. I kept all the bar switches so they look like they actually work. only turn and horn work. every oz of dead weight has been removed. there is nothing left to strip out. the best part of riding this turd is the reaction the nyc police give me. its like being on the enterprise with shields at 100 percent. every one here knows I'm a lane splitter street cross rider. the cops wave to me and I wave back. they are too busy with 2t's and stuff without plates. I'm legal and inspected.

restomod is a type of build. its the art of using new parts on an antique in modern ways. it also means people can't see what you did till you start the bike. this is how I restomoded my cb360 to run batteryless.

posted at one popular honda site, they thanked me by banning me for life. do the was a waste of time. that site works on bad karma. one person kicks you down then everyone steps on you. more politics then facts.

these are some of the parts I used to run batteryless. ebay is a strange place. if you try to buy a h4 insert for your stock headlight it costs $22.99. buy the whole headlight costs half. If you want to use stock turn signals just change them to ll56's to yellow cob's and dont use the signals in the headlight.

this is the headlight, h4 reflector and front integrated turn signals in the pic.




                                           
this bulb uses very little current. throw away the free 30watt bulb and change to this bulb. you can not run without a battey with out this part. run it on high and no need to switch the headlight. the bike will start fine with the led on high with one kick.




this is the 1157 red cob led I used in my taillights.
                                             
         

[m in sc]

looks fun for nyc.

why you dragging me into this? lol.     

lol. stock. 

(excuse the zip ties, epoxy was drying)  @ idle in bright shop light with hpi and no battery.. 

[bracket maker]

looks fun for nyc.

why you dragging me into this? lol.     

lol. stock. 
.. 

because you know what you are talking about. cob type is brighter that bike is perfect for nyc but it would get stolen on the street. hope that explains the sows ear. I also have a hardon for period correctness.

[bracket maker]

Can I use my two dual-filament bulbs as turn signals as well as running and brake lights? yup, here is how

logic.
not like mr spock. there are 3 thing going on when you turn on the signals. front turn signal, brake light and running light all need to flash on the side you are turning. the other side the brake light needs to work the running light is on and the front turn signal is off
.
                                            turning                    other side
front turn signal      (fts)          flash                           off
brake light              (BL)          flash                          brake
running light           (RL)          flash                            +

BS is brake switch. on the signal relay B=12v+ from the turn signal switch.  L=load=led.

welcome to thr MY3NJ HH53P DC 12V Coil 11 Pin Terminals 3PDT Power Electromagnetic relay. we can use it to flip between the two logic modes as we turn the signals on and off. one other problem, if you want to only use one flasher module you have to electrically isolate the flasher module from left to right relays. you need 2 cheapo diodes to do this. total parts two 11 Pin relays, two 1N5408 rectifier diodes. one led flasher.


the diagram is the actual relay pinout.





jb welded these bulbs to the cut frame. snaked the wires through the frame and wires come out of a small hole drilled in the frame under the seat on both sides

[bracket maker]

If you read this you will know all.

1. the stock diode pack has 6 diodes. a 3 phase bridge rectifier has 6 diodes. the biggest difference is that the new part costs $2 and is twice as powerful. 40a vs 20a. you must rectify all 3 stators. this is called 3 phase rectification. then you regulate. this is how it's done today!

2. you need all 3 stator wires wide open at idle if you want to run a battery eliminator. stock the bike is wired for 2 stators and a battery. the 3rd stator was used with the high beam. you can not run the battery eliminator this way. yes I tried and failed. why? I tried becuase the manual is written this way. you need to rewrite the old manual to run with a battery eliminator. 

3. you don't need to change the stator or increase output with special electronics. just lower the load by getting rid of the stock headlight. h4 led is the solution. no need to change the stator or have a special regulator.

4. the john deere rec/reg is 2 phase. running 2 stators and a battery was how the bike was wired to run. the #1 electrical sticky post on honda twins is just stupid.  as long as you don't put on the high beam you are running stock. the first poster is not a liar, he is an idiot.  he should have left the radio shack part in place.
       
5. any magnito  regulator is turned off at idle because idle is below the charging voltage. no magnito regulator uses any power at idle. at idle is where honda twins run badly.

6. honda twins run fine without a battery with all stock parts. there is something to be said for points. any bike that runs points and magnito can be run batteryless with an eliminator and led's.

[motodreams]

Can you explain further what you did to modify the stator if anything?  Not totally clear on that point or does the move to LEDs eliminate the need to modify the stator at all along with the minor wiring changes?

[bracket maker]

the move to LEDs eliminate the need to modify the stator at all along with the minor wiring changes?

yes, but rewiring in a modern configuration is not minor. it's how I have the only cb twin with a battery delete running legal on the street. working turn signals and headlight. this is not done on any forum except 2sw. takes a moto mechanic to read the honda forum and see they are clueless. posting this info got me banned at the twins site. that one stator wire being rectified is how it's done. you have to rectify 3 phase for this bike to run properly. the internet is broken on this one. sorry.

I got my cb360 in parts. cutting off the connetor at the stator is the only mod I made. I wanted to run without a battery. tried what the manual said. attached 2 stators and the battery eliminator and no joy at idle. bike would run but stall out as the rpm's dropped. then I rewired. rectified all 3 stator wires and with the battery eliminator bike runs great. then I connected the regulator. when I tried the lights and again stalls at idle. changed to all led's and viola! I even start with the lights on becuse they use so little juice. first kick every time.

Sonreir answerd the reason for this. it's because voltage regulation was poor at that time in history. todays solid state regulators allow smaller batteries or an eliminator and can do all 3 stators all day long.  all I did was rectify the 3 stator phases then regulated in a modern way.

they are wrong. you can run a battery eliminator if you switch to all led lights. the reason this works is because led lights draw much less current. my total drain with all lights on is 9 watts. 5w for the 800 lumen headlight and 2w each for the tail lights.

posted all the parts needed to run with a battery eliminator. the only thing different from stock is all the crap I removed from this bike. like 50 lbs of dead weight. the cn250/ch250 r/r is plug and play once the plugs are cut off. nobody can screw this up.

[bracket maker]

I saw a pro do pinstriping. garry the local brush was hired for the day at my local harley dealer. watched him paint. looks really easy. bought a brush set so I can do my own. tried on scrap first. not easy at all. I have no artistic talent. was bummed till I thought of  plan b. thought it would be really easy to take a temporary tatoo and add graphics that way. here are the results. the internet says if you cover it with liquid bandage its permanant. the solvent in the liquid bandage melts the temp tattoo if you don't do it quick with one pass. all in all with no artistic talent I know it will impress. $.79 shipping included. fyi there are thousands of temp tattoos on the net. if anyone knows of a better clear coat that's good with plastic graphics please chime in.