Injection oil recommendations ?

[Robert58]

 I ran Yamalube R for about 1000 miles on new ProX pistons and rings. I and found about 0.001 wear on pistons and ring end was huge gap . I called Yamaha and they say only to use Yamalube R for premix and run Yamalube S for injection. I just had cylinders honed and installing new pistons and rings did leak down test held 6 psig for over 1/2 hour.  Any suggestions on oil  choice would be appreciated.

[m in sc]

i assume you are running the injector?

personally, i use castrol 'go' (used to be the snowmobile oil). But everybody has reccomendations and preferences. hard to find a modern oil that isnt good as long as its compatible with injector systems. 

[Robert58]

Yes, I'm running pump

[SUPERTUNE]

Could be your machinist didn't bore your cylinders to correct size.
When boring RD cylinders for size, you have to buff off the breakin coating Pro-X puts on the pistons with scotchbrite pad on the piston at the measurement location.
If you measure your piston on the coating you will bore the cylinders too big and cause wear because the cleances will be too big when the coating wears off.
I do use Quicksilver outboard oil synthetic blend on my RD's I build to set up on stock oil pump injection systems.
I'll post some pics...
Chuck

[SUPERTUNE]

Buff the pistons like this before measuring...




Set to .002 for streetbikes and .0025 for super hot street and roadrace engines.

[SUPERTUNE]

Another tip on Pro-X pistons kits is throw the 2nd ring wavy expander in the trash, don't use it!
I set the oil pump shimming to .010-.011 as well up from stock at .008.
Chuck

[retaRD]

I set the oil pump shimming to .010-.011 as well up from stock at .008.
Chuck

I do this as well.

As far as injector oil, personally I run Motul 710.

[Robert58]

Damn, I did a lot of research on pistons and clearances when I ordered the ProX pistons  . I did not read about removing the protective surface to take measurements. I also had called ProX about ring expanders and they say to use them and stock pistons have them. I did not run them on the old pistons, Chuck,  what happens if they are used?

[SoCal250]

...everybody has reccomendations and preferences. hard to find a modern oil that isnt good as long as its compatible with injector systems. 

Very true

As far as injector oil, personally I run Motul 710.

+1   

[pdxjim]

...everybody has reccomendations and preferences. hard to find a modern oil that isnt good as long as its compatible with injector systems. 

Very true

As far as injector oil, personally I run Motul 710.

+1   

+2   

... but currently running BRP XPS2 in everything coz it's cheaper and there's a Skidoo dealership down the street from my house.

[SUPERTUNE]

Damn, I did a lot of research on pistons and clearances when I ordered the ProX pistons  . I did not read about removing the protective surface to take measurements. I also had called ProX about ring expanders and they say to use them and stock pistons have them. I did not run them on the old pistons, Chuck,  what happens if they are used?

They are always broken when I take them out after 1500 miles, so I quit using them not long after using the RZ/Banshee Pro-x pistons in RD and RZ's
A lot of scratchy looking bores are sometimes from not proper cleaning after boring and honing process which is a very dirty and gritty operation.
  I do a very special cleaning before re-assembling engines.
Washing cylinders in hot soapy water with powdered Tide, then rinse with water, use WD40 right away before blowing dry.
Then I use a folded white paper towel with Marvel Mystery Oil on it heavy, then rub on the cylinder walls until you see no discoloration of the red oil on the paper towel, then do it one more time. Now you finally ready for assembly.

On the oil subject, everyone uses different toilet paper!
I like motul 710 too, but too expensive. So the next solution for me with the same results is Quicksilver Synthetic blend Outboard oil. Order from Walmart and Advanced Auto parts.

When Mercury Marine sold you a 15,000 outboard engine and this is the oil they recommend to stay within the warranty policy...good stuff.
Remember outboard engine run like they are on a dyno load their whole life and hold up, that works for me in my RD's.
Been using it for over 10 years. Belray SI-7 was my favorite too back then.   
Chuck

[pdxjim]

I feel the same way about the BRP pwc/snowmachine oil I've been using.

Those suckers run WFO pretty much all the time.

Plus it's only $13/liter and 710 is up over $20 now.

[SUPERTUNE]

I can go to any walmart here and pick up Quicksilver oil $30 a gallon +tax, as I live in a very high boating area.

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Mercury-Quicksilver-Synthetic-Blend-2-Cycle-Outboard-Oil/17165294
C

[Jessup]

No matter how much evidence proves cheap oil never damaged anything, people will still continue worshiping glorified oil containers like religion.

[whymee]

I ran Yamalube R for about 1000 miles on new ProX pistons and rings. I and found about 0.001 wear on pistons and ring end was huge gap . I called Yamaha and they say only to use Yamalube R for premix and run Yamalube S for injection. I just had cylinders honed and installing new pistons and rings did leak down test held 6 psig for over 1/2 hour.  Any suggestions on oil  choice would be appreciated.

Yamaha is correct. S is for injection.

The word on the street is that R is too thick for injection.

I have been using R & S in the correct application for the better part of thirty years. No oil related failures. Ever.