• Welcome to 2 STROKE WORLD .net.
 

News:

MSRs 78 400 , My hybrid and a random German tractor






Main Menu

R5 Autopsy

Started by Czakky, June 09, 2019, 09:07:33 AM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Barrie

IS there no strainer gauze in the tank outlet? 
I can't fix stupid , but I can give it a bill !

SUPERTUNE

That's about right on oil flow...
C
RD machine work, boring, porting, cranks and engine building.


Chuck 'SUPERTUNE' Quenzler III
Team Scream Racing LLC
1920 Sherwood St. STE A
Clearwater, FL. 33765
cqsupertune@tampabay.rr.com

quocle603

I am starting to think it's an electrical issue. Doesnt hurt to clean the carbs.
Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

m in sc

old saying:

most jetting issues are electrical.  :devil:

Czakky

@ Barrie, there was when I cleaned the tank 1-1/2 years ago. I will look tonight.

As far as the oil pump goes I'm at a total loss at this point. I will take it apart again but I don't know what I could've missed... twice.

@Quocle, The running issues are most definitely an electric issue I'm confident of that. First things first though I'm going to solve the pumping issue.

quocle603

Quote from: m in sc on June 26, 2019, 04:28:49 PM
old saying:

most jetting issues are electrical.  :devil:

I give up...  :umm:
Do not underestimate the power of a two-stroke.

1975 Yamaha RD350 (modified), 1973 Yamaha RD350 (stock), 1971 Suzuki T500, 1981 Yamaha XS650 HS2, 1982 Honda MB5, 1980 Puch Maxi, 1979 Puch Magnum, 1993 Tomos Bullet, 2003 Malaguti Firefox F15 LC

Czakky

Yup I took apart the oil pump again and no change.

This thread has gotten a little convoluted... my fault.

Here's a quick rundown. After a rebuild the oil pump ran perfect for almost two years. This winter I decided to throw on some clear injector lines. I pinched the feed line with a vice grip, released, primed the pump and filled the new clear injector lines. Shortly after I noticed some poor running. In hindsight it might've been oil starved. I replaced the coils as I was thinking it was the cause of said poor running. Then was stranded on the side of the road due to a seizure. Oil was certainly not pumping at that point, clear lines had a few inches of air in them.  I then rebuilt my original pump with a generic rebuild kit (no check springs). Same exact thing... Then a forum member donated a new/used pump and I rebuilt this one using the Economy Cycle kit that includes check valve springs.... Same exact thing. Rinse, repeat. I've gone over my work replace all seals and associated gaskets. Same exact thing.
It primes easy fills the lines, no bubbles. Then I go for a ride and the injector lines fill half way with air.....

I'm at a loss. If I wasn't so hard headed I'd give up.

Am I doomed to premix?

Barrie

Open the pump and see if the bubbles migrate up the lines,
also if more bubbles are seen coming out of the pump. Is the bleed screw sealing properly?
I can't fix stupid , but I can give it a bill !

Czakky

When you say open the pump, do you mean the bleed screw?

m in sc


Barrie

Quote from: Czakky on July 01, 2019, 01:32:31 PM
When you say open the pump, do you mean the bleed screw?


With engine at idling , open the pump to WOT using the cable, do more air bubbles come out of the pump ?
I can't fix stupid , but I can give it a bill !

Czakky

Maybe a few pinhead sized bubbles but not much more.

Striker1423

Your pump woes are bleed related. As an aside... I build computers as a hobby, mainly for myself and friends. I have fitted and refitted water cooling loops on multiple computers. The hardest part that takes the longest is getting all the air out of the system. Even when you think it's done it might surprise you.

Crack the bleed screw, let drain a minute or so. This clears air from the oil feed pipe and forces it out the pump. Close bleed screw and start bike on premix. Vary opening and closing the pump with the cable at idle. Then try giving it various cracks of the throttle. Air can be very stubborn to become dislodged in close looped systems.
This same method helps me with computers it's just an electric pump and a lot of jiggling and moving the computer to the sides etc.

You can even lay the bike towards the side  before cracking the bleed screw if it's being stubborn. Just not far enough to let air back in the feed line or out the overflow tube.


Czakky

I guess my only thought is that if it had air in the pump would I still be able to prime the injector lines?

I will try and give it another go. Vigor restored!

Czakky

I tried bleeding as described, twice... Same thing.
I was surprised to see a little burp the first time I opened the bleed screw yesterday, but since then I've been unable to get any air out.

It goes like this: Bleed, prime until injector lines are solid, idling, everything looks good. Go down the road a mile and the left line particularly has 2-3 inches of air sloshing around. Re-prime, same thing.