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Ordered a set of turn signals, for girlfriend's 1980 Honda C70 Passport, from Thailand. Parts were not expensive, and shipping was about 3X the cost of the parts.  Seller states there will be import fees.  Curious to see how much and if the fees are based purely on the parts cost or if fees are charged on shipping as well. 

So...........
   The original Ebay post stated there would be import fees due.  The original shipper, from Thailand, stated there would be import fees due.  As soon as USPS received the parts to deliver, the official USPS Tracking website showed that import fees must be paid prior to delivery.
   Got home from dirt bike riding yesterday and the box with the parts was left on the porch by the mail carrier.   

   Ordered a set of turn signals, for girlfriend's 1980 Honda C70 Passport, from Thailand. Parts were not expensive, and shipping was about 3X the cost of the parts.  Seller states there will be import fees.  Curious to see how much and if the fees are based purely on the parts cost or if fees are charged on shipping as well. 

  Thanks for the kind words and info.  Don't want to hijack the thread, since the point was mainly about an international purchase and the pitfalls, or lack of, that I encountered. 
  The 'stainless' is non-magnetic, so maybe a decent grade.  I fully expect it to turn blue, and develop some surface corrosion over time.
  I will post a picture and some info in Show Off when mounted
Thanks again.

[$55.00 for FedEx Priority International shipping]

   New Motoes Torque Pipe for my 300cc 2T Beta Xtrainer.  Handmade stainless.  From Turkey.  No tax or import fees. $55.00 for FedEx Priority International shipping.  Was shipped from Turkey at 1:45PM local time on Friday 10-31.  Delivered to DeLand, FL at 2:00PM today Monday 11-3. 
   Go figure

I got my JIS Impact Screwdrivers from John @ Economy Cycle. 

https://www.economycycle.com/product/vessel-jis-crosshead-impact-type-screwdriver-set-23/

Super nice

   You can leave that bushing in.  It shouldn't vibrate out since it is pressed in.  I left it in place in my race motor.  You can try to give it a tap from the backside and see if it budges, then pry it out.  OR just run a loop of safety wire through the center of it as insurance.

The fork lowers and front hub are desirable for a dual disc front end.  If you are so inclined

   Also, when putting the carbs back together after cleaning, note that the bowls are 99% identical, and can be interchanged by accident.  The bowl that goes with the left carb that has the brass tube will have a little hole at the bottom of the chamber that the tube inserts into.  That little hole feeds the fuel to the choke (enriching) circuit.
   Easy to swap bowls by accident and then the bike is hard to start after cleaning/rebuilding the carbs, because the choke is not getting fuel.

NOT MINE! No idea who the seller is.  But if someone makes a deal, I could pick it up and store it Inside for a couple of months until the buyer could make arrangements to come get it. In DeLand FL.   

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/720615890342835/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks

Very nice.  Also love that Yamaha still offers a lot of replacement hardware for 50+ year old models.

Blue ScotchBrite pad and Barkeepers Friend

I am usually removing/refreshing a Mop-N-Glo finish when I do this.

Blue ScotchBrite pad and Barkeepers Friend

   And after getting the M/C sorted, Don't NOT rebuild the caliper as well.  Brakes are a 'system', not just a collection of parts, and spending time/money at one end and not the other is not the best choice.   

[IF]

can you drill and tap the other side of the carb?

That^^^  IF the slide is machined on both sides for an idle screw.  I am not familiar enough with the TM slides.
How often do you need to adjust the idle?

If you just want it to breath better, and make more noise, you can probably go this route for a lot less $$:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/186254427616?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&gQT=2

  On My WR250R I left the stock exhaust, because for me it is loud enough, and the 1-2HP gains from spending $600 on an exhaust system seems foolish    I did spend about $1000 on the suspension.  As far as fueling mods, I did remove the AIS, did some air box mods and added a K&N. And added the EJK, just to make sure it still ran smoothly, not really in search of power.
   I understood, when I bought the Yamaha, that I bought a motorcycle that makes less than 30HP, and I am fine with it.  If I wanted more HP I would have bought a Beta 390 or 500.   

(I do understand that the AIS has nothing to do with fuel settings, as it is down stream of the combustion chamber.)