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I do lust after those pipes.

That black T500 just looks too right.
I don't have FBook, but saw this in images for Ed Toomey Designs. Ed has had his clappy hands on at least one, (that wasn't as good looking).

Likely needed, as I can't figure it out and it would be foolish not to know and just get new carbs (when it's something stupid and unrelated that I might have done).

Speaking of new carbs:
Which PWK's from which Toomey?

28mm for stock porting and non-stock programmed curves?

They take oil lines?

Just rode it with needles as high as they can go plus a washer.

Seems like a needle shape/emulsion tube issue.
Mark, I don't recall your above idle iggy curve number, but maybe the stock carbs and internals can't deal with it.

Idle is fine, opened up above 4k is fine.
Part throttle and lower rpm brings some unhappiness. That's where the YPVS is supposed to be helping and there's sputtering instead of some grunt.

I was at the other side of the needle adjustment too and it was a bit little worse. It's just not there with this hardware.

I'll drop back and punt, hoping for a growth bonus from work for January 15th. Those carbs have been off and back on at least 10 times. I got good at it. That will help me for the rest of my life 

The needles are getting lifted to the point that I am wondering if another emulsion tube is needed. Gonna go another step - step and a half up and then investigate going up from 375 O-8 needle jet to whatever is next up in flow.
That is not obvious by looking at Jets R Us under VM26 round slides. There is no 375 anything.

Hoping for success before I run out of needle jet.

Gratuitous photo included, featuring the higher flow Yamaha fuel valve that has been suggested.

You can see which of these will NOT have a fuel feed problem.

That tank after paint   

That is one top hybrid project.

That 1A1 crank is a keeper, compared to the Daytona Special crank. That is, if everything is what it seems to be.
There might be more detail to that assumption, but others can certainly chime in.

Excellent bike as it is - really!

Thanks, all of you!

That one looks like is has better reach coming down from the tank 

Might not stick out through the hole in the side cover, but has a lever to grab.

I ordered a piece of crap from Amazon for $20 just to keep things moving but yours looks like a better move.

Yes. Will have to get a higher volume petcock to make sure that there's no problem dropping enough fuel into the carbs. (Feeding fuel thru a "125" valve to a 350 might be a problem)

Then, drop both needles another 1/2 step. Trying to make small adjustments because there are only 250 miles on the rebuild which was running fine before these possible electrical issues.

Dropped both needles 1/2 step more. Left will probably remain down 1/2 step lower than right. That's what the plugs, feel and ears tell me.

Still better, but a sputtering thickness as the throttle opens under load. Annoying.

Rode it further than usual and after a romp through the gears, apparently the bowls get too dry and it slows down to let them fill back up. I'm blaming that on the TZR125 fuel valve.

It was nice to wring it out in 1st, shift to 2nd and feel the front wheel lose contact.

To update further, it seems that the TZR125 fuel valve allows the carb bowls to slowly run out of fuel.
That's the theory and the way that the RZ is behaving.
Getting a bigger petcock as soon as time slows.

Feeling rich. Starts and idles fine. Dragging a cylinder only under load at lower rpm when cold. Spooky when you have to pull out into traffic like that.

THEN, it all goes away after warm up and we're running normal.

After lowering the float level 2mm and dropping the needle 1/2 step, it got better and I'm almost home except for this.

To simplify the above, does the bike tend to lean out as it gets warmed up?