Dead RD400 resurrection

[m in sc]

make sure whoever does the welding they preheat those cases & cool them down slow...  they like to twist when welded. 

[JBeasty]

Cases are with the welder (fingers crossed). I did ask him to preheat and cool slowly.
I've taken some preliminary crank measurements, and I think I'm in spec, but I haven't thoroughly cleaned it yet - just playing with my new cheapo HF digital indicator. This is all new to me. Not sure how to go about measuring crankshaft assembly runout (can this be done with it resting in the lower case?)
Don't laugh, this is my setup: 

[m in sc]

no you need v blocks at a min.

[JBeasty]

Debating whether to buy V-blocks, or just have the crank checked and re-done if necessary. I don't know if I trust myself after watching videos of crank work.
Got all my cases back from the welder. They looked a bit rough at first, but after a lot of Dremel work things are looking good. I'm debating having the cases soda or vapor blasted somewhere (can't find a place local), or using my bead blaster cabinet. I've done the oil pump and alternator covers, and they came out nice. I'm learning there's two camps of thought when it comes to bead blasting. "Don't do it, you'll never get all the sand out of your cases, and you'll wreck your new re-build" and "Just plug everything up good and when your done, thoroughly clean with air pressure, soap and water, and pressure washer. And meticulous inspection. 

[Kawtriplefreak]

Like you said, close inspection and an air hose with a good nozzle and you can easily get all the glass beads out. I have done hundreds of engines. My 1st job as an apprentice at the shop I worked at in the 70s was bead blasting and I have a good entry level professional machine I have had since 2004. Vapor blasting makes a lovely finish and one day I hope to upgrade to a vapor blast machine. That being said if you take the time and do the prep work right you can get a nice finish with glass beads. Just my
.

[Striker1423]

absolutely check for any leftover glass. I had a bit on the bottom of a bolt hole, had to clean it out and re-tap after making a mess of the threads.

[Kawtriplefreak]

That's why I chase all threads before and after I do a glass bead job. In addition I put a bolt in every hole to keep the glass beads out. Most of the labor I charge is for the cleaning, before and after, prep and packing /unpacking because that is what takes the most time. The actual blasting so long as the weather cooperates is the easy part. I hate cleaning parts..
I don't like to get mineral spirits on me so I tell everyone bead blasting is paid by the job, parts cleaning is $40 an hour.

[JBeasty]

That's why I chase all threads before and after I do a glass bead job. In addition I put a bolt in every hole to keep the glass beads out. Most of the labor I charge is for the cleaning, before and after, prep and packing /unpacking because that is what takes the most time. The actual blasting so long as the weather cooperates is the easy part. I hate cleaning parts..
I don't like to get mineral spirits on me so I tell everyone bead blasting is paid by the job, parts cleaning is $40 an hour.

When you chase the threads, do you do it with a tap, or just get in there with a scribe or something?

[Kawtriplefreak]

With a tap before and after, every threaded hole. I also run a die over all the case studs.

[JBeasty]

With a tap before and after, every threaded hole. I also run a die over all the case studs.

Awesome! Thank you!! I'll post up a pic of the before and after. Here's another pic of one of the side cases after welding, filing and sanding.

[msr]

Incidentally, for anyone who doesn't already know, Kawtriplefreak does amazing work. I got these cases back from him in January.

[m in sc]

agreed. tim does do great work. 

@ jbeasty, repair looks fantastic 

[JBeasty]

Incidentally, for anyone who doesn't already know, Kawtriplefreak does amazing work. I got these cases back from him in January.

Those look very nice indeed. Kawtriplefreak, can I ask what PSI you find works best for you?

[Kawtriplefreak]

I do them in 2 passes. 80 PSI the 1st time around. Then I cut the pressure back to 40 PSI to knock the shine back some is what works well for me.Thanks for the kind words.

[Striker1423]

Yea the higher the PSI the quicker you get a vapor shine, but also the trade-off is a lack of control. Shining up aluminum is a breeze, but I definitely see why its important to have a legitimate setup, my home-gamer job is harder to dial in, though it does work well. Regardless if i can see the parts while working or not.