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Modified 72 R5 at sunrise

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Messages - teazer

#1
Haus of Projects / Re: the 72 T500
October 21, 2025, 01:47:17 PM
Decent heads would make a difference and so would decent porting and larger carbs. 

Lomas GT750 street pipes also look beautiful and are designed to peak at reasonable revs rather that balls to the wall.
#2
General Chatter / Re: Flaky eBay buyers
October 21, 2025, 01:43:35 PM
ebay scams are bad enough but Facebook Reels is the go-to place for scam adverts. High priced items at low cost - web sites created to support the scam with fake reviews - website and cash disappear after the scam dries up - chance of getting money back: zero.
#3
It looks like you have two of the same bowl.  In a "choke" bowl, there is a cross drilling plus a small #70 jet in the vertical hole.  If the small brass jet is in place, the port can be opened and the size is not critical. 

That's how most Mikuni carbs are set up.  https://pinkpossum.com/GT750/carb/BS40carbs.htm  has  nice cross section.
#4
Turning Wrenches / Re: Oxygenated fuel, oh my!
October 07, 2025, 06:36:54 PM
MR12 is great for a 4 stroke, but I wouldn't recommend it for a 2 stroke.

Back to the thread though.  More alcohol in the form of ethanol or methanol carries more oxygen but burns at a proportionately richer air:fuel ratio. Race gas is designed to resist detonation and some race gas burns slower than pump gas to achieve that result, but not all.

My favorite race fuel so far is VP U4.4 because it seems to be the most responsive to throttle input. Regular race gas is really safe in terms of detonation protection but often has a flatter throttle response. I have tried all the Sunoco blends and some VP, and few of them actually make much of a difference to power on a street motor.

That Engine Masters video made it abundantly clear that on that motor, 87 pump gas made as much power as 91 or anything else except methanol or E85 and they really run much richer than street or race gas. Their value, like all race gas is resting detonation.  If you have more than say 150PSi of cold cranking pressure, you might want to think about higher octane gas and if you are closer to 200psi, you must use race gas to prevent a melt down.

To put it all in perspective a 5% power improvement on say a 50HP RD is 2.5HP at peak. Nice to have but at less than peak revs, you get the same power with a slightly wider throttle opening and on the street, it is really not worth the big bucks.  That said, I just got a pail of Q16 to test.
#5
The only coils I had a major problem with were from a GS500 where I had to flip one coil and sand the smallest amount off two adjacent coils.  Most of the aftermarket coils have spade connections but fit without issues.

If yours are genuine N-D, they should be good +/- and minor trimming.

I inherited a pile of old OEM coils and probably half of them had one or two coils with breaks on the low side and most of them benefited from replacing the plug(HT) leads. SuzukiDave was the guy that taught me the replacement lead trick a few decades ago.
#6
Quote from: Striker1423 on July 06, 2025, 10:39:29 PMI have a new set of coils for the GT. The big problem I have is the layout of the new set is backwards to the old and when mounted in the bracket the far left coil hits the frame.

I had to resort to cutting the old wires out and epoxying new ones into my
old coils for now.

Replacing the HT leads is often all that's required for the old GTs. What coils did you get as replacements?  I have used a few different coils over the years with differing fitment issues, but most are an easy fit.
#7
Turning Wrenches / Re: GT750 Left Cylinder Again
June 24, 2025, 03:58:11 PM
If he didn't take that last one, please let me know and I will take it...
#8
Turning Wrenches / Re: Low cylinder compression
June 24, 2025, 03:56:43 PM
Quote from: m in sc on June 23, 2025, 10:56:01 AMyou absolutely sure the gauge is accurate? 65 is pathetic, I rebuild at 90 ish. I got bit by a low reading gauge once, I'd verify it's accuracy 1st

I found that a lot of good looking economy priced pressure gauges read low. I have several good gauges that I use, but you also have to pay attention to the throttles which must be wide oen and did you kick it once or keep kicking until it peaked - typically 5 or 6 kicks?
#9
Does Chris Livengood still rework RFY shocks?  They are cheap to buy and surprisingly good for what they cost, but can be improved.
#10
Turning Wrenches / Re: GT750 Left Cylinder Again
June 23, 2025, 02:47:54 AM
I had my local machinist make a slightly longer drain bolt as a banjo bolt and used a spare oil feed banjo and some plastic tube.

A simpler solution would be an adapter with the correct fine thread on one end and a barbed other end to slip clear plastic tube over. Z1 enterprises had a suitable one IIRC or see if Evans Ward can machine up a few. I did buy one from him a while ago, but I think that was for an RD with different thread.
#11
Turning Wrenches / Re: GT750 Left Cylinder Again
June 22, 2025, 02:25:07 PM
I usually check FUEL level with a small adapter.  It is surprising how often the float level looks OK but fuel level is wrong.

It's a good idea to check ignition timing with a strobe lamp, though those motors don't seem to care if they are a few degrees out - even ones with high compression and heavily ported.

Unfortunately I cannot access my FB account for the moment.
#12
I recently repaired a set of Jemco pipes and that included a lot of hammer and dolly time and in the end I had to replace about half the cones. I still have a set  Bassani pipes that I don't want to even think about.  To be honest, repairing pipes is more trouble that it's worth.  The exception is MX pipes which they plug, pressurize and add heat until the air pushes the dent out.  I am not trying that any time soon either.

The Jemco's took me months because they were so frustrating to work on. My hat is off to anyone doing that professionally.
#13
That HPI ignition is interesting.  Is it programmable ?

#14
Did you try a new condensor and while you are in there, double check for frayed wires or wires rubbing on the frame or engine cases.