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#1
General Services For Hire & Supplies / Re: Various Machining Services
Last post by grcamna3 - Today at 07:56:15 PMQuote from: sav0r (CL MotoTech) on July 17, 2025, 07:53:11 PMA number of folks have reached out to me recently. All, I appreciated the thought and well wishes.
I am back working regularly again. My sister and I more or less finished closing my mother's estate, at least all the big stuff, at the end of June. I got a new cat out of the deal and that's been pretty great!
Anyways, hit me up if you have any interest in some work.
Hi Chris,thanks for all the quality suspension work you've been doing for me these past couple months;I'm glad I finally found someone/You who does good work.
#2
Haus of Projects / Re: Yamaha Scramblers from 196...
Last post by Simmons1 - Today at 07:45:20 PMNice bikes!They look like fun projects.
#3
Turning Wrenches / Re: YPVS Loses Position(?)
Last post by 2steve - Today at 06:38:56 PMIt was stock, other than Toomeys with Toomey jetting. Any changes that were made were to overcome the new poor low rpm running problem.
The new Toomey replacement needle could be suspect and the new Yambits coil could be suspect of the other possibly-newer separate problem.
It's still a mystery and now it's harder to cuddle up with it in the garage and test ride.
Last I looked at the carbs after the visit with Mark, (using his correct point of view to check from the cylinder side instead of the filter side), the right carb really is different in slide stroke. Changed it to be equal to the left at lift off. Now wide open is unmatched.
Didn't fix it down low though.
The new Toomey replacement needle could be suspect and the new Yambits coil could be suspect of the other possibly-newer separate problem.
It's still a mystery and now it's harder to cuddle up with it in the garage and test ride.
Last I looked at the carbs after the visit with Mark, (using his correct point of view to check from the cylinder side instead of the filter side), the right carb really is different in slide stroke. Changed it to be equal to the left at lift off. Now wide open is unmatched.
Didn't fix it down low though.
#4
Turning Wrenches / Re: Another leaking neutral sw...
Last post by 1976RD400C - Today at 12:19:49 PMOne of those switches that I bought on Ebay wouldn't fit in the hole. I had to take the o ring off and do some serious sanding.
#5
Haus of Projects / Re: Need help on project
Last post by Tropic-al - Today at 10:46:57 AMThank you SoCal for the advice. Just learning from all of you. Hopefully I will get it running soon.
#6
eBay/FB Marketplace/Craigslist watch / Re: Uh Oh "custom" Yamaha RD35...
Last post by m in sc - Today at 08:25:59 AMthat actually doesn't bother me too much, it could be saved into something nice. not stock, but all stock bikes all the time are fucking boring. the work to it was actually done pretty well.
thats the guy that actually stuck a banshee motor in a grom.
thats the guy that actually stuck a banshee motor in a grom.
#7
Turning Wrenches / Re: Another leaking neutral sw...
Last post by Kawtriplefreak - Today at 12:51:42 AM24 hour leak check good.
#8
Haus of Projects / Re: Yamaha YA-1 Resurrection
Last post by Yamanatic - December 15, 2025, 11:40:35 PMHi Tw,
Here's the ingredients for about a gallon of Zinc electroplating 'Salts,' done in Metric (easiest for me):
1 - 3 Liters Distilled Water
2 - 0.2 Liters White (cheap) Vinegar
3 - 0.12 Liters Karo Syrup (or about 120 Grams pure cane sugar) as a whitener/brightener
4 - 300 Grams Epsom Salt
5 - 100 Grams Zinc Sulfate Monohydrate (powder); super cheap. ZnSO4 provides the zinc ions in solution to facilitate the transfer of the Zinc Anode to the Work.
6 - Pure Zinc Anode strips or sheet; again cheap, just be sure it's 99%+ pure.
Worry not if measurements are not 100% perfect; a Ratio-Rite and Food Scale are plenty close. Give the mixture about 24 hours for everything to completely dissolve before using. I mixed mine up in a 1-Gallon capped jug, shook it every few hours, and used it the next day - it doesn't pressurize if you leave the cap on.
Zinc Sulfate Monohydrate Powder - 35.5% Zn - 2 Pounds | eBay
12 Pcs Pure Zinc Anode Sheet (99.995% Pure) for Plating and Zinc... | eBay
7 - Power Supply:
No need for a plating transformer for smalls like the YA-1 levers; dry-cell 1.5V batteries - AA/C/D work. I used a parallel type flashlight battery holder with 4 AA's before buying a used electroplating transformer - 2V~10V at 3 amps was needed for bigger pieces like rims and handlebars. Anodes go to the + side, Work to the - side. I use 2 Anodes (one on either side of the work), or you can turn the work around at 5 or 10 minute intervals to get an even plate - just be sure to expose all surfaces to the Anode(s). There is a formula for how much voltage to use for a given surface area but I go seat-of-the-pants. Too much voltage and the plating will come out grainy, thick, and gray, and not enough voltage gives a thin, 'rainbowish' colored finish that takes forever. When you get it right it takes about 30 minutes, and leaves a nice, smooth, bright finish; expect bubbles to form on the work after a few minutes, and a light foam (sometimes) on the surface of the bath around the work. No bubbles usually means more voltage is needed, and too much bubbling (white opaque foam) means reduction. 1.5V to 2V does most everything M/C. Rinse thoroughly in tap water when done. I usually polish the part with 0/00 Steel Wool for more shine.
I used Fine Glass Beads in a blaster to prep the levers; rock/vibratory tumblers work great too. Wipe the work down with 99% alcohol and let it dry before plating - if not, you may leave fingerprints or bare spots in the Zinc. The hangar wire will leave a bare spot where against or too close to the Work too.
Another addition to the restoration progress, rebuilding the YA-1 Advance Mechanism; it was stuck retarded (I can sympathize), had corrosion, and both advance-springs were missing. Being careful not to over-restore an engine part (good excuse, huh?), I took it apart and spent maybe 15 minutes at the wire-wheel (bench mount with extra-soft bristles) to eliminate the corrosion and rust, a once over with medium steel wool to get the crevasses, then washed and rinsed everything in distilled water. The pieces were staggered along a piece of safety wire hanger and plated all at once using the same setup exactly as for the levers - a piece of masking tape was wound around the pivot shafts on the flyweights to prevent plating.
The big trick was the springs; all newer Yamaha (and several other's) advance springs were way too large. The YA-1 springs were sandwiched in a space that measured 4mm wide; Back to China =( for a bulk 1 foot length of 3.5mm OD Expansion Spring to make new ones. Luckily Yamaha used the 'down and dirty' method to make the springs and both end loops were just a coil of the spring bent straight out. Hardest part was keeping 4 spring ends hooked up and screwing the tension plate down at the same time. Works fine now!
Warren
Here's the ingredients for about a gallon of Zinc electroplating 'Salts,' done in Metric (easiest for me):
1 - 3 Liters Distilled Water
2 - 0.2 Liters White (cheap) Vinegar
3 - 0.12 Liters Karo Syrup (or about 120 Grams pure cane sugar) as a whitener/brightener
4 - 300 Grams Epsom Salt
5 - 100 Grams Zinc Sulfate Monohydrate (powder); super cheap. ZnSO4 provides the zinc ions in solution to facilitate the transfer of the Zinc Anode to the Work.
6 - Pure Zinc Anode strips or sheet; again cheap, just be sure it's 99%+ pure.
Worry not if measurements are not 100% perfect; a Ratio-Rite and Food Scale are plenty close. Give the mixture about 24 hours for everything to completely dissolve before using. I mixed mine up in a 1-Gallon capped jug, shook it every few hours, and used it the next day - it doesn't pressurize if you leave the cap on.
Zinc Sulfate Monohydrate Powder - 35.5% Zn - 2 Pounds | eBay
12 Pcs Pure Zinc Anode Sheet (99.995% Pure) for Plating and Zinc... | eBay
7 - Power Supply:
No need for a plating transformer for smalls like the YA-1 levers; dry-cell 1.5V batteries - AA/C/D work. I used a parallel type flashlight battery holder with 4 AA's before buying a used electroplating transformer - 2V~10V at 3 amps was needed for bigger pieces like rims and handlebars. Anodes go to the + side, Work to the - side. I use 2 Anodes (one on either side of the work), or you can turn the work around at 5 or 10 minute intervals to get an even plate - just be sure to expose all surfaces to the Anode(s). There is a formula for how much voltage to use for a given surface area but I go seat-of-the-pants. Too much voltage and the plating will come out grainy, thick, and gray, and not enough voltage gives a thin, 'rainbowish' colored finish that takes forever. When you get it right it takes about 30 minutes, and leaves a nice, smooth, bright finish; expect bubbles to form on the work after a few minutes, and a light foam (sometimes) on the surface of the bath around the work. No bubbles usually means more voltage is needed, and too much bubbling (white opaque foam) means reduction. 1.5V to 2V does most everything M/C. Rinse thoroughly in tap water when done. I usually polish the part with 0/00 Steel Wool for more shine.
I used Fine Glass Beads in a blaster to prep the levers; rock/vibratory tumblers work great too. Wipe the work down with 99% alcohol and let it dry before plating - if not, you may leave fingerprints or bare spots in the Zinc. The hangar wire will leave a bare spot where against or too close to the Work too.
Another addition to the restoration progress, rebuilding the YA-1 Advance Mechanism; it was stuck retarded (I can sympathize), had corrosion, and both advance-springs were missing. Being careful not to over-restore an engine part (good excuse, huh?), I took it apart and spent maybe 15 minutes at the wire-wheel (bench mount with extra-soft bristles) to eliminate the corrosion and rust, a once over with medium steel wool to get the crevasses, then washed and rinsed everything in distilled water. The pieces were staggered along a piece of safety wire hanger and plated all at once using the same setup exactly as for the levers - a piece of masking tape was wound around the pivot shafts on the flyweights to prevent plating.
The big trick was the springs; all newer Yamaha (and several other's) advance springs were way too large. The YA-1 springs were sandwiched in a space that measured 4mm wide; Back to China =( for a bulk 1 foot length of 3.5mm OD Expansion Spring to make new ones. Luckily Yamaha used the 'down and dirty' method to make the springs and both end loops were just a coil of the spring bent straight out. Hardest part was keeping 4 spring ends hooked up and screwing the tension plate down at the same time. Works fine now!
Warren
#9
General Chatter / Re: Spitfire exhaust Indonesia...
Last post by quocle603 - December 15, 2025, 10:20:39 PMQuote from: m in sc on December 15, 2025, 07:30:54 PMI mean they look good. but performance is a whole other ball of wax. I really hope they work out.
Super curious on that too.
#10
General Chatter / Re: A farewell
Last post by quocle603 - December 15, 2025, 10:18:01 PMNice honoring.
Slick bike, strat, and LP. Some of my favorite things in life. Glad I am not the only one
Slick bike, strat, and LP. Some of my favorite things in life. Glad I am not the only one