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I modified a few settings to make it easier to upload pics, this works both in pc and mobile applications.

few things to know:

1: there must be text in the message body of some kind. (can't be blank)

2: will not show in a 'quick reply'. has to be a full reply of new post.

3: max displayable size is 750px750px. (it will resize it down to that if its too big automatically)

you can add about 10 images to a single post. can drag/drop or browse for them by clicking bar at bottom.

hope this helps. 

Pulling the cyl studs to clean them up and scrape the gasket last night, i used a nifty stud puller i bought on ebay 6 or so mos ago the neat thing about it is its basically a reverse drill chuck with grippy jaws, but will allow the threaded part to pass thru the tool so you only grip on the smooth part of the stud not messing up the threads. got all 8 pulled in less than 10 mins w this thing. opened up, put over, used air ratchet and they all jus tpsun right out. would be great for case studs as well, would probably chew up an exhaust studs threads. however, would recommend one for the tool box.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/144224024402?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=EMPDi9DKSva&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=9DXeqLNdSLW&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

as an fyi, had to redirect the database to a slightly different address, and run restore from 6/1/23. the site was throwing 2000-3000    error logs per day trying to find stuff it couldn't. sorry about that.

k2-tec pipes i just got are clear coated from the factory. do i need to paint them or will the clear coat hold up for a few years? thanks.

the novelty of the auto clutch on the CT had worn off, after over 3000 miles with it, i decided to change it out.

I had to order  a'racing' part from thailand to get the primary gear engaged sleeve, took over 6 weeks, which then fucked up the oiling int he crank, and i had to bypass the slinger holes, and machine a sleeve to direct it or it would starve the top end. 9cranks are different from the trail to the grom, for example).  also, the clutch stack is shorter, so I had to use a trail clutch, but stack out the bearing int eh pressure polate to make the stock grom cover work, which, i also had to machine to accept the kickstarter.

I used a factory grom clutch perch, lever, cover, pusher, etc. aftermarket pressure plate and steels.

i have since these pics routed the cable and bracket under the bodywork and it works as if it was factory, and is definately better.

was it absolutely worth it? i didnt expect it to be this much of a pain in the ass, i have probably 10-11 hours in it and around 200 bucks in parts. lol.

you -can- get a kit to add a clutch lever and cable and leave the centrifugal clutch on the crank, which, in hindsight might have been the way i went if i knew it was going to be an issue.

Im waiting on a supercub trim (chrome ring) for the cover to swap out the black grom one, but this is it for now. however, now i can clutch up a wheelie, which is pretty cool. lol.






stock



stock clutch bell to left, aftermarket to right which is just a flywheel. this is the part that took 6 weeks to arrive.





crank end had to be drilled and sleeved to redirect oil, as these holes are what passed it into the spinner and clutch. w out blocking these, top end would have starved of oil.



sleeve i lathed up. this was a press fit deep into the end of the crank (rh side of pic) after i drilled out the blocked portion between the 2 sections w the oil ports. the oil goes thrut he crank, then into the bearing int eh side cover, and channels up to the top end in a really convoluted way. 



grom clutch stack rh side, trail to left. I used the billet pressur eplate and the discs off the grom one. the stack is too tall to clear the spinner on the trail, so had to go shorter.

fyi, the cover and some of the clutch parts were leftovers i had from the '14 grom.




as installed. but like said, bracket was re-bent and welded and now sits behind the bodywork, much cleaner.



clutch lever action. lol.  afte ri testrode it, i did take the standalone mirror perch off, and it all looks factory now.



what a pain int he ass, but fun too.

2 strokes are so much easier. 

https://iconicmotorbikeauctions.com/auction/1989-yamaha-tzr250-3ma1/

Ive actually seen this bike In real life last month and know the owner, its pretty nice for sure.

pretty good, in japanese. check around min 8 is notable.

Jim sent me this:

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/557221813172561/

This topic has been moved to Race Discussions.

https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=5426.0

So, years ago i had this post, and mentioned the intake. https://www.2strokeworld.net/forum/index.php?topic=2122.msg18153#msg18153

I sat on the file for a while and finally reached out to Steve Burgess (the guy that 3d prints all the stuff for rds in the uk) to try to do this.

well, finally got a result.   





lower support. it keeps the carbs supported nicely, all the 'bad' flex on the intakes is basically negated.



excuse the embarrassing rusty bracket that will be removed very soon.




also.. test fit to matts 400.




i need to make the neck after the y about 1" shorter, and set it up to use a shorter all foam filter. this sill not clear a battery box of any kind, and the filter isn't really -ideal-, but this should work really, really well  as it is for me.  After i get the 2nd revision done, and IF Steve wants to sell them, they will be good to use on bikes with battery boxes.

this clears the frame rails by a mile, does NOT neck down anywhere in the bends. Hopefully can get an updated design done and over to Steve so he can offer them if he's willing.
 

so, about a year and a half ago i got the ds7. i had to replace one of the molex plugs and it was the clip style i put back on.

so, when i put the vape on the 70 r5, i took the dyna off the 70 and put it on the ds7. now, ive chased on and off ign issues with this bike way back, but finally got it sorted.. of so i thought.  but always seemed to work ok with points, which made no sense.

well, yesterday after i took it out the RH cyl started dropping in and out a bit, so brought it back home, took the cb in. last night got digging and lo and behold, the plug was just loose enough as to where it would 'slip out'. the non clip style are almost an interference fit, where the clip styles are looser. I didn't have a male clip style holder handy, so did the next best thing: zip ties. this fixed it.

why did point swork ok? they can jump a signal across a gap if they are close enough, which i think is what was going on here.   I  also need to place a refill order at vintage connections again. lol.

just hope this helps somebody. lesson: always use matching connector blocks

last Saturday at cars and coffee.  Guy Im talking to has a really nice CB750, vfr1000 & 500 interceptor.

No one knew what the hell we rode in on. 

(stolen from the clarkson fb page) 

https://www.ebay.com/itm/285161963509?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=hyi_AadsTvC&sssrc=2047675&ssuid=9DXeqLNdSLW&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

So, I've had possession of this bike, going on 11 or 12 years now.  It was originally supposed to be repaired for somebody else, but we struck a deal and back in 2014 as all mine. The original plan was, my ex wife wanted us to do a project together, I told here if she actually came out and helped, she could have it.  well.. you see where that landed.   

admittedly, it was a bit ratty when i got it, forks were 2" over stock, and didn't match each other internally. had been crashed on the left, and the RH side cover was long gone... but something about it i liked.

I got it running in '15 ( i think), but that was it.

fast forward to late 16-early 2017, and i put some focus on it. it never had the stock airbox since i had it, so stuffed a y boot on it. had broken baffle plates, cut the pipes and repaired them, and found an original paint side cover.

im also running rd350 baffled in the stock pipes.

had the seat redone, and last year replaced the tatty stock tank with an NOS one. Mind you, i've been riding it steady since early 2017. and it -always- ran great. replaced the clutch, crank seals (yay r5), and put on a vintage smoke dyna, and some correct forks, also swingarm bushings, etc.
there's tons of little things ive done with it over the years.. but have -never- had the top end off, of the cases out of the frame. compression has always been spot on, and i'm 99% sure there's wisecoes in there, the cyls have def been off and it has that 'forged piston rattle' at idle.  One day i'll pull the top end. Just not today.

So, since its basically all stock and sort of a rolling restoration of sorts, I eyeballed a stock NOS gauge bracket john @ economy had on his 'used/closeout' page, and had matt dump it in with one of his many orders for his RD400 project.  i also had some new gauge isolators from yambits for an R5/DS7 on hand.


recently i found an early R5 airbox lid and airbox in really nice shape, so i figured id try it out on the R5. 

carbs were w the y-boot & K&N set to

40 pilot
1.25 on airscrew
169-00 jet tube
middle clip
140 main. and its been there for years and ran great.

so, few nights ago i decided to restockify the bike.

took carbs off, set to stock 1970 settings which are:
40 pilot
1-3/4 out
169-00 jet tube
4th clip
110 main

( the 72s are different for some reason though)

I have to say, the midrange is def stronger, but no change in top end performance whish surprised me a bit, figured it would go down.

its also quieter riding.


heres some pics. all the 'stock takeoffs' will be transferred to the 72 DS7 if they are better than whats on it, or the 72 R5 (which def isn't stock).

I also painted the airbox lid with wrinkle paint and cured it in the shop toaster over. helps keep stuff from sliding, and wont scratch up.  200 degrees for about 40 mins or so.

gage mount and rubbers, nos and new top. cant see it here but the bottom one has a slight bend to it.  did i need it? no, but its nice.



those damn d cup washers and hairclips. washers are origina, cleaned and painted, clips are i think as well. original gauges.





airbox in with a NEW filter. if you have never put an R5 box in... its challenging at best. makes the rd ones look good/easy.

lunch!



lid on w new strap.  also, in the seat uprights, i have a band of velcro across them to keep the tool kit from sliding back.



here it is w the new airbox to carb runners as well. its no show bike, gets ridden too much for that. but its pretty from a few feet off.





heres an early pic on its 1st fire up back in 2014-2015? or so.

















 











 

 

Just got off the phone with a fellow that races and has some really neat project bikes, recommended this guys for crank rebuilds etc.

https://roysrides.com/

anyone use him for cranks? I might send him an rd crank to get done as a spare. 

they moved it a bit this year, to the henderson airport, which, IMHO, will be better as it was getting super crowded. I think this is going to absorb a lot of elements from the bull city rumble since thats dead now.

Worth the trip, always a good time.  Angie and I already booked in a house for the weekend.

WEBSITE:
https://www.tonuphighlands.com/?fbclid=IwAR13cKAdfpMPMs5bAdO-iEMj-QnGWJ0LDAOrrngD61E7eAtMfkmnTM0QFaY


facebook page:
https://www.facebook.com/photo/?fbid=615166260419505&set=a.537446528191479

I just deleted 12 pages of inactive user accounts that had never logged in. Most were banned spammers as it was, but as of late, we have been getting a LOT more with gmail accounts.

IF you have a gmail account linked to this group, I would request you change it please. Im deleting 50-80 per day, would like to just trigger all gmails from not being on here if i can.

Just fyi.

So, not for big motor pulls or anything, but more often than not, on bikes that don't have a center stand, I've had to get creative. and neck stands dont always cover it.

So, i ordered one of these today to help when i need to support a bike doing forks, etc. I'll doa  cross beam in the rafters, doubt i'll ever lift more than 250 lbs with it.

anybody have one of these (or similar of course) in their garage? I figure the remote will be nice as well. 

https://www.homedepot.com/p/VEVOR-Electric-Hoist-1320-lbs-Electric-Winch-with-Wireless-Remote-Control-with-Pure-Copper-Motor-DDHLWXYK1320B0001V1/321593787?cm_mmc=ecc-_-THD_ORDER_CONFIRMATION_BOSS_STH-_-V1_M1_CA-_-Product_URL&ecc_ord=WB38368950&em_id=21e35ec8f74c09a9e57b593dd70a5d53036f9631b3d11069d268379d2f8e460b&fbclid=IwAR01sc3sSAquga42_WehQ0TftLgSXre3i-DShY9h5UKpUPPgVurURghze9M

Been a few mos since I've actually ridden this. what a hoot.