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when i replace them i chase the threads with a cleaning tap then blow out the holes clear. i used a bit of blue Loctite reinstalling. just seat them but if you need a torque spec its 12-15 ft lbs. its set by thread pitch and material etc. (typically)

flip the clamp pickup over. i have one that never worked on the left cyl either till i put it on backwards. also try it on the other cyl.

i forgot to put the " in my call out.

like ive said, ive run mine for years and beat te snot out of the pistons no issues

I measured the pistons and they seem really tight.  IIRC it's supposed to be .5mm clearance? 

.0025-.003

conventional is to change them. me, i run the, cut the tab in the center off or radius it back, it needs to be addressed.

correct on the jet tubes.  as far as the torque,  having literally just done it back to back if its anything, it's the change in the later motor intake length or airbox. my 0.02

fast forward a few yrs..on the 2nd t500,,i was also trapped with stock early carbs. i had a bunch of spare parts, but all early internal vented bodies. so i compared and the only difference seemed to bethe lack of an external vent, so I made one. drilled and removed a brass ball from a cross port and fit a 188-p4 jet tube and 5fp17 needle,  stock for 73 and up. viola! carburation, sorted.  this one will stay stock (the 71) but its just dismal the factory setting pre 73. the current replacement is a 159-p4 jet tube,  but these require a,hex jet vs round. as an fyi. however, what im going to do is retrofit a set of vm34s i have for the black 72. endless... lol.

ive never had a digital gauge go crazy int he sun. ive never had a koso unit speedo/tach so cant speak to that. i have run koso gauges like temp etc and they always did fine. 

my 71 t500 has a bb crank in it

dencos are basically impossible to find,  give up on that. i actually am in possession of a set, took almost a decade to get. i plan on measuring thrm up so they can be reproduced, but they are, from what ive seen, the rarest street pipes for rds ive ever seen that weren't one offs

got the divider version printed up and tested. helped between 4-6k, wasn't really an issue before but seems better here no by a bit.

and yeah, you're right. there should be a feed tube on the left carb where the plunger is. not the rh carb. very odd. why somebody would swap that is beyond me.  also, both slides should be 2.5 cutouts, and the arche of the slide on both needs to face the air filter side.

somebody def got creative on the repairs.

is it a us or european soec bike? need a pic the bellmouth

thru fedex? maybe. doesnt really matter to me.  if they take them then, fine.

i got an in the mail bill from fedex for a yambits order from mos ago, like 9 bucks or some shit. im not paying that either.  i got that last month at some point.