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Howdy, bringing back an R5 from the dead.

Started by RD4140, December 17, 2021, 08:19:08 AM

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85RZwade

#45
I post waayyy too much

RD4140


RD4140

Also, in my usual ass-about style it seems Vermont have sent me fresh tags and paperwork yet no license plate.

I feel like 99.99% of people get the plate first then ask where the tags are, haha.

Mailed in paperwork and cheque December 17th
Vermont DMV cashed the cheque December 29th
Tags received Jan 10th.

Not a bad turn around all things considered.

RD4140

#48
Had a bit of time on the lathe today and finished (I think) my bushings and spacers to put the Thruxton wheel into the GSXR forks.

I couldn't use the Thruxton front axle (17mm) because the GSXR forks are wider, so used the rear axle. I ended up adding 20mm of thread, and shortening the whole axle my 20mm.
Had to make two 32mm OD Bushing to pass through the forks. I made one with a bit of thread to match the axle thread (M16x1.5) so it's threaded through there, as well as has a locking nut.
One of the bearing/seal sleeves is monstrously big to make up for not having the Speedometer hub in there. It doesn't look too bad, but I'm not a huge fan.

I'm kinda making this up as I go, so if there's anything glaringly wrong - feel free to drop some constructive criticism.

85RZwade

They look perfect, but they'll have to do.
I post waayyy too much

m in sc

looks great. this should be a nice result.  :olaf:

RD4140

#51
So lads, I have more punishing questions. Throwing the front end together is kids plays compared to the rear end.

I'm attempting to fit a Royal Enfield Interceptor 650 swing arm on. It's a great fit at the pivot point, however if I want to centralise the rear wheel I need to come left / clutch side about 1/2"-3/4". This is bringing the left hub right up to the swing arm, so I was wondering has anyone ever machined off a bit of the pivot width and just made a bushing/space to take up the left over space on the other side? See attachment for more context.

So, it's also put the wheel about 2.0" further back. What implications does this extended wheel base have?  I'm trying to imagine it having a huge negative effect on cornering and wheelies, but being that my daily ride is a Harley I can't imagine it's terrible in comparison.

Also, this puts the rear suspension out of whack. I'm handy with the mill and TIG welder so relocating the swing arm suspension mount isn't a problem at at. Is that the common solution for this? I can actually make the swing arm shorter too if thats not too crazy. Not that hard to elongate the slots on the milling machine.

Thanks for any advice y'all got.

Striker1423

I think typically, its longer shocks for the rear to compensate. The RD400 swingarm is about that long if I remember reading here.

Also, the rear wheel offset is hard to picture without seeing it. The swingarm doesn't look very far offset, but in your description, it would make sense to need to trim some of it off.

RD4140

It's not a huge offset. I can't see the harm in giving it a try. It's a mass produced part from India, no one's going to shed a tear if it ends up in the scrap bin.

The Thruxton rear wheel assembly is pretty damn wide, so i was going to have to turn about 10mm off the mounting face for the sprocket to even get it to line up anywhere near the motor drive sprocket anyway.

Cut N Shut.

m in sc

should work fine, mill it down and shift it w a spacer on the other side if theres room.

RD4140

I finally got around to machining the pivot on the swing arm down. Machined 10mm off width, then bored out to suit bearing.

All in all, a pretty easy operation.

However, I rage quit my job yesterday after an absolute slap in the face of a measly pay raise so hopefully I don't need too much more machining done until I start a new gig.

Striker1423


RD4140

Well what do y'knowww, i think it worked.

Should have machined up the spacer before I rage quit my job, but ya live and ya learn I guess. Some washers seem to be doing the job fairly well.

Striker1423


RD4140

Hello lads (and ladettes?)

Back on my project. I gotta clean these cylinders up (i assume), there's a light bit of surface rust in them. I read the manual and it addresses shit on the piston itself but not in the cylinder. Whats the neatest way to get this back to practical use?

I always hone out hydraulic cylinders with some oil, but those seals are normally far more forgiving.

Can you do a light bit of honing in these cylinders and not have to worry about the piston rings? It's really just some light rust on the surface. Aside from finger bashing it with some light sand paper I can't think of anything else.

Any advice appreciated.
Thanks.